In heavy clay soil, we recommend digging a hole about 6" wider than the root ball. Dig the hole slightly more shallow that the root ball height, so that approx. 1/3 of the root ball will remain above the soil level. This will alleviate potential drainage problems. Mix an equal amount of amended soil with the backfill soil. For acid-loving plants (such as rhododendrons, azaleas, evergreens & dogwoods) add fertilizer containing iron to the backfill as well. Remove all plants from plastic containers. If roots are thick and entangled, break open the root ball by making several vertical cuts through the wall of the root mass with a utility knife. Then use your fingers to gently break up the outer surface of the root ball. For balled & burlapped plants, place the plant into the hole, cutting any cords or ropes from around the trunk. Pull the burlap back away from the trunk. Do not remove the wire cage around the root ball. It will not impede the growth of the tree, and disturbing the roots could cause the plant to go into transplant shock. Tamp the soil down firmly around the root ball and water in thoroughly to remove any air pockets. Mulch the exposed root ball to a depth of 3”, keeping the trunk clear of mulch. We recommend utilizing liquid Root Stimulator and a regular watering regimen on all plants until established (at least 1-2 years), particularly throughout hot/dry months. See further information on watering below.
Anytime the ground is not frozen, you can plant/transplant. We recommend planting when it works for you & your schedule, and when the selection of the plants you are looking for is the best. There are considerations to make when planting in the summer. Due to the typically hot, dry weather, a watering routine is crucial for your plant to thrive and to minimize the chance of transplant shock. We also recommend using liquid Root Stimulator regularly, per the label instructions. Tender annuals such as Impatiens, Periwinkle, or Geraniums and Vegetables (like tomatoes and peppers) must be planted after the danger of frost is over in the spring. Our average last frost date in Evansville is April 13th.
For plants installed in the landscape, the best practice is to water slowly for a longer period of time, enough to allow the soil to become thoroughly wet to the depth of the original root ball (or container). This helps to establish a deep root system. Soaker hoses are ideal for this type of watering. If you are using a hose, be sure you have it on a slow trickle setting for 20-30 minutes. Newly planted trees & shrubs require watering weekly to several times a week (if we are not receiving the equiv. of 1" of rainfall per week) for 1-2 years. Maintain a watering schedule from spring until the ground freezes in the fall. Watering early in the morning is best. This allows the plants to absorb water before facing the heat of the day – think of it as breakfast for your plants. Morning watering also gives the plants time for any water droplets on the foliage, which can act as a magnifying glass for the sun’s ray, to evaporate before intense sunlight later in the day, which can cause leaf scorch. It is also important that water droplets on the foliage dry out before nighttime when fungi and molds can grow. For smaller plants such as annuals (planted in the ground), perennials and groundcovers, the root systems are smaller and shallower. They should be deeply watered every 3-4 days (if we are not receiving rain). In very hot or dry weather, more frequent watering may be needed.
For annuals and tropical plants in containers or hanging baskets, we recommend that they be checked daily for watering needs. Be sure to check below the soil surface. A moisture meter may be helpful. Hanging baskets are particularly susceptible to drying out, and during very hot, dry or windy conditions, they may require watering twice daily, particularly if they are located near stone, concrete or brick walls, walks and patios.
Six or more hours per day.
The ideal situation for most 'partial sun' plants is either filtered sunlight through the canopy of trees or morning sun on the eastern side of a building. (Typically, afternoon sun conditions on the western side of a building are too hot for most partial sun plants, even if it is fewer than 6 hours.)
Note: Pruning refers herein to reducing the overall size of a plant either for the purposes of controlling size/shape or to rejuvenate an older plant. Pruning does NOT refer to the removal of dead/diseased/broken limbs or to the removal of spent flowerheads, often called deadheading. The removal of dead/diseased/broken limbs and spent flowerheads can be done anytime of the year.
I.e., Maples, Oaks, Birches, Honeylocust, etc.
I.e., Crabapples, Flowering Cherries, deciduous Magnolias, Flowering Dogwoods, Ornamental Pears, Serviceberries, Redbuds, etc.
I.e., Crape Myrtles, Mimosas, Golden Rain Trees, Chaste Trees, etc.
Pines - Early summer (June) after new growth but before it has had time to harden off; do not prune beyond green growth, exposing the interior limbs.
I.e., White Pine, Austrian Pine, Vanderwolf Pine, etc.
Other Conifers - Early spring right before flush of new growth (usually minimal to no pruning needed); do not prune live branches during the growing season (late spring through summer); do not prune beyond green growth, exposing the interior limbs.
I.e., Norway Spruce, Blue Spruce, Arborvitae, Leyland Cypress, Junipers, etc.
I.e., Hollies, Boxwoods, Cherry Laurels, Leucothoe, Pieris, Mountain Laurels, Foster Hollies, etc.
I.e., Azaleas, Lilacs, Shrub Roses, Viburnums, Deutzia, etc.
I.e., Summersweet, Rose of Sharon, Crape Myrtles, Weigela, Butterfly Bush, Bluebeard/Caryopteris, etc.
Type 1 Method for H. macrophylla and H. quercifolia (Mophead, Lacecap and Oakleaf hydrangeas such as, ‘Lady in Red’, ‘Nikko Blue’, ‘Nantucket Blue’, ‘Pia/Pink Elf’, ‘Glowing Embers’, ‘Twist-N-Shout’, ‘Midnight Duchess’, ‘Alice Oakleaf’, ‘Sikes Dwarf Oakleaf’ and ‘Pee Wee Oakleaf’, etc.) Blooms on old growth – prune in summer after flowering has ceased (no later than August 1st); remove only dead stems in spring – do not remove living stems.
Type 2 Method for H. arborescens and H. paniculata (Snowball and Paniculata hydrangeas such as, ‘Invincible Spirit’, ‘Annabelle’, ‘Bella Anna’, ‘Pee Gee’, ‘Limelight’, ‘Quickfire’, ‘Little Lime’, ‘Tardiva’, ‘White Diamonds’, etc.) Blooms on new growth – prune in fall or winter; do not prune in spring or summer until after it has stopped blooming; remove dead stems in spring.
Type 3 Method for H. macrophylla (Remontant or ever-blooming mophead hydrangeas that Blooms on both old and new wood such as, ‘Endless Summer’, ‘Blushing Bride’, etc.) – prune anytime; remove dead stems in spring.
I.e, Daylilies, Irises, Coneflowers, Salvias, Coreopsis, Russian Sage
I.e., Dianthus, Creeping Phlox, Lenten Rose, Bergenia and some Salvias, Sedges, Coral Bells, etc.; for lavender, see below.
I.e., Ostrich Fern, Cinnamon Fern, Japanese Painted Ghost Fern, Lady Fern, Royal Fern, Maidenhair Fern, etc.
I.e., Autumn Fern, Christmas Fern, Deer Fern, Alaskan Fern, Champion Wood Fern
There are a few reasons this might occur:
No. Landscape mulches contribute to a stable, moist environment that is good for our trees and shrubs. All mulches, whether wood or rock, provide moisture-retaining properties in the underlying soil and insulation against temperature extremes, which happen to be favorable conditions for termite exploration and tunneling. However, there is no evidence that the moist conditions attract termite foragers from the surrounding landscape. Rather, when the termites wander into a suitable habitat they are more likely to remain and feed in that area. Studies have shown that wood mulch itself is of poor nutritional value to termites and is a non-preferred source of food. Since the moisture-retaining properties of mulch are more of an attractant than the mulch itself, it makes little difference what type of mulch is used (hardwood, cypress, pine bark, rock, pea gravel etc.). This does not mean you should avoid use of mulch, nor does it endorse one type of mulch as preferable over another. In field studies, termites were detected with equal frequency beneath hardwood, pine bark and pea gravel mulches and bare, uncovered soil.
Wherever mulch is used, it should not be applied to a depth greater than 3 inches, and it should never be allowed to contact wood siding or framing of doors or windows. If you suspect termite activity, contact several professional termite control services for inspections and estimates. Termite treatment is best left to professionals who are experienced in the various methods of termite control. Do not be rushed or pressured into a hasty decision. Termites work slowly, and your house will not be ruined overnight. Deal with reliable firms and get several inspections, opinions and estimates.
Slime Mold
Slime molds are members of a group of organisms called myxomycetes and are found all over the world, including deserts, high altitudes and even on the edges of snowbanks. They grow during wet weather conditions in a variety of habitats including mulch, lawns, leaf litter, rotting logs, etc. Slime mold begins its life as a yellow amoeba-shaped blob that can range from several inches to more than a foot across. If you happen upon a massing of slime mold, you might at first glance mistake it for “dog vomit,” to which it is commonly referred. As weather conditions become drier, slime mold dries out and turns brown and eventually white, resembling a powdery clump. Slime mold does not cause diseases of plants or turf. It is generally harmless albeit gross-looking. It is best left alone and will eventually dry up and disappear. If you can’t stand the sight of it, you can remove it by scooping it up and placing it in the trash, taking care not to rupture and stir up the mold. Disturbing the slime mold may kick up spores and produce a brown cloud of smoke, which could result in further spread of the spores.
Monday - Friday 8-4
Closed Dec. 31 - Jan. 2
